F.P.Journe lança Centigraphe Souverain Sport, totalmente em alumínio

François-Paul Journe acaba de lançar um relógio feito inteiramente em alumínio - desde a caixa à bracelete, passando pelo movimento - um cronógrafo.

A F.P.Journe escolheu o Centigraphe como modelo para estrear a sua nova colecção, a “lineSport”, com calibres automáticos e manuais, toda feita em alumínio.

Esta colecção presta tributo a um importante coleccionador de peças F.P.Journe, que tem participado em muitas maratonas e provas de triatlo e que queria um relógio desportivo ultra-leve, no segmento de Alta Relojoaria. Com a sua capacidade de medir centésimos de segundo, o Centigraphe Souverain pareceu ser o modelo apropriado.

Como em tudo o que faz na vida,l este coleccionador entregou-se por completo ao projecto e, para isso, transformou por completo o seu estilo de vida. De epicurista, passou a mestre da dietética, conseguindo perder muitos quilos num tempo recorde, mantendo um estado de saúde excelente.

F.P.Journe quis prestar tributo às conquistas mentais e físicas deste homem de negócios e começou a pesquisar materiais ultra-leves. O alumínio foi a escolha final e este relógio pesa apenas 55 gramas, com bracelete incluída.

A passagem do ouro rosa - usado em todos os calibres F.P.Journe - para o alumínio não foi fácil, por razões técnicas óbvias. No final, a F.P.Journe conseguiu métodos de fazaer o alumínio resistente aos riscos, anti-alérgico e resistente à corrosão.

Ainda antes da apresentação da nova colecção, e como Estação Cronográfica oportunamente informou, François-Paul Journe ofereceu o primeiro Centigraphe Sport, numerado 001, a favor das vítimas do terramoto / tsunami no Japão, sendo a peça leiloada em Maio, em Hong Kong, tendo rendido 3,6 milhões de dólares de Hong Kong, para a construção de casas para os desalojados.

Além disso, François-Paul Journe decidiu doar 30 por cento dos lucros de cada Centigraphe Souverain Sport vendido ao ICM – Institute do Cérebro e da Medula Espinal, de Paris, que se dedica à luta contra doenças como Alzheimer, Parkinson ou Esclerose Múltipla.

O Centigraphe Sport estará disponível a partir de Setembro, em exclusivo nas boutiques F.P.Journe de Paris, Nova Iorque, Genebra, Hong Kong e Beijing.

Dados técnicos:

The hand-wound mechanical movement of the Centigraphe indicates elapsed times from a 100th of a second to 10 minutes, visible on 3 dials, each with a time scale in red.

The indications

The 100th of a second hand revolves around the dial in one second on a scale marked in hundredths of a second. On the dial at 2 o’clock, the hand revolves once every 20 seconds on a time scale divided into seconds. The third dial, at 6 o’clock is graduated for 10 minutes.

Patented ergonomic chronograph

The chronograph is started, stopped and zeroed by a rocker at 2 o’clock in the case band, instead of the usual buttons on either side of the crown. This ergonomic design, perfectly fitted to the wristwatch, is patented.

Patented chronograph mechanism

A second patent was granted for the mechanism’s ingenious configuration, which effectively isolates the chronograph from the timekeeping function. This means the balance amplitude is unaffected when the chronograph is running.

The hands of the 100th of a second counter, the 20 seconds, and the 10 minutes hand are driven by 2 different wheel trains, themselves driven by the centre of the mainspring (patented).
Another separate train of wheels, also driven by the barrel arbor, drives the 10-minutes hand.

1/100th second recorder hand

The 100th of a second’s hand, released by the watch's escapement, makes one revolution of the dial per second. A wheel mounted on the escape wheel (4th wheel of the going train) releases the arbor to which the hand is fitted. The seconds are driven by the going train from the barrel, and by the energy of the chronograph train, as transmitted by the barrel arbor.
One ingenious feature of the 100th of a second is that it may be stopped anywhere along its one-second journey around its dial, even between two 100th-second divisions, enabling a fractional reading.

This is achieved by vertically disengaging the pinion of the 100th of a second hand from that of the escapement, which presses on the pivot shank and acts as a brake.

Return to zero

The 20-seconds hand and the 10-minutes hand arbors are zeroed by hammer levers acting on snail cams. The 100th of a second hand is stopped at zero by a beak protruding from its pinion, which presses on a lever and thus blocks the chronograph train.

Maintaining power and power reserve

The barrel features a maintaining power system in order to ensure that the driving force does not decrease during winding. The mainspring supplies at least 100 hours of power reserve without the chronograph, and 24 hours with the chronograph running.

Movement Calibre 1506
Manual winding
Movement in aluminium alloy

Dimensions of the Movement Overall diameter: 34.40mm

Casing-up diameter: 34.00mm
Overall height: 5.60mm
Height of hands: 1.45mm
Height of winding stem: 2.69mm
Diameter of stem thread: S1.20mm

Balance Free-sprung balance
Four adjustable inertia weights
Anachron free sprung balance spring
Mobile stud holders
Pinned GE stud
Spring pinned to the collet
Frequency: 21,600v/h (3Hz)
Inertia: 10.10 mg/cm2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude: 0h dial up: > 320°
24h dial up: > 280°

Escapement In-line lever escapement - 15-tooth escape wheel

Indications Central hours and minutes
One-second chronograph: hand at 10 o’clock
20-seconds chronograph: hand at 2 o’clock
10-minutes chronograph: hand at 6 o’clock

Chronograph Separate chronograph train driven by directly from the mainspring
1/100th second readout

Power Reserve 100 hours with the chronograph stopped
24 hours with the chronograph running

Finishes Circular stripes on the bridges
Circular graining on the baseplate
Polished screw heads with chamfered slots
Pegs with polished rounded ends
Straight-grained steel work

Case Aluminium alloy with rubber inserts
Diameter: 42.00mm
Total height: 11.60mm
Dial Aluminium alloy and transparent sapphire
Crown Titanium with rubber coating
Bracelet Aluminium alloy with rubber inserts
Deployant Clasp Aluminium with rubber coating, adjustable

Control Rocker arm to start, stop and zero the chronograph
3 position winding crown
Position 0, disengaged
Position 1, winding
Position 2, time-setting

Number of Parts Movement without dial 284
Cased up with strap 324
Jewels 50
Rubber 72

Weight Total weight: 55 g
Movement alone 12 g
Sapphire glass 7 g