Criado na nova Maison des Métiers d’Art, em La Chaux-de-Fonds, o relógio Ronde Louis Cartier Filigree reinventa a secular arte da filigrana, usando uma abordagem figurativa. Prosseguindo o caminho iniciado em 2013, quando apresentou um relógio usando a esquecida arte da granulação.
A filigrana apareceu no Egipto, mas a sua invenção é atribuída aos sumérios, por volta de 3000 a.C, antes de ser desenvolvida na Índia, Tibete, Grécia e Irão, e muito mais tarde em Portugal, onde atingiu um novo nível de excelência.
Da marca:
As diaphanous as lace, fi ligree is a technique of goldsmithing that uses gold or silver wires soldered together in order to create an openwork grid with a desired motif. For Cartier, the challenge consisted not only in adapting it to the restrained dimensions of a watch case but also elevating this craft by opting for a very precious selection of jewellery materials such as gold, platinum and diamonds.
The craftsmen of the Maison des Métiers d’Art worked with beaten gold and platinum micro-wires that required specific equipment specially created on site. Twisted, rolled, curled and cut into little rings, these wires were assembled using the “openwork” fi ligree technique that allows the elements to be attached on the sides but not to the base.
Over a month of work was required to create this lacework watch that is home to a pair of panthers whose black-lacquer-spotted coats are literally woven from fi ne fi ligree elements of gold and platinum set with diamonds. Sovereigns draped in brocade, the two panthers look at each other with their cut-to-measure emerald eyes.
This delicate feline tête-à-tête is set against the background of a starry sky and surrounded by a middle pavé-set with diamonds, which is partly covered by the motif. This exceptional work of art brings together numerous kinds of craftsmanship, from gemstone-setting to goldsmithing, from jewellery-making to watchmaking, from engraving to lacquering. A thousand actions that give Cartier’s emblematic animal a rare preciousness with a balance, grace and absolute refi nement that are as ethereal as the finest lace.
Ronde Louis Cartier XL. Limitado a 20 exemplares. Calibre de carga manual, da manufactura (430 MC), caixa de 42 mm, de ouro amarelo, com diamantes na luneta. Mostrador e ponteiros de ouro amarelo, com diamantes e duas cabeças de pantera em filigrana de ouro e platina, com esmeraldas nos olhos.
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