Chegado ao mercado - MB&F HM3 ReBel

Laurent Picciotto e Maximiliam Büsser

A última criação da MB&F segue claramente a tradição da marca: só espíritos fortes a podem usar. E quando Maximiliam Büsser & Amigos decidem baptizá-la de ReBel,m então o caso torna-se ainda mais "sério"!

"ReBel: R for right (hand), B for Black (case)", explica-nos Max. "The black-coated ReBel is a distinctive, rock 'n roll mirror-image of the HM3 designed to be worn on the right wrist, as a few individualists out there want to do".

"Under the ReBel's black PVD-treated white gold case, charcoal-coloured movement plates and bridges form a darkened backdrop to the flash of the 22K rotor as it speeds by, while white gold clover-head screws on top of the black case resemble rivets in an upmarket biker's leather jacket", explica o pai da MB&F.

O HM3 ReBel é uma edição limitada a 18 unidades, disponíveis em exclusividade nos pontos de venda da marca em Los Angeles, Los Altos, México, Paris, Londres, Milão, Porto Cervo, Gstaad, Interlaken, Singapura, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok e Macau.

E, para demonstrar a atitude radical desta peça, quem melhor que o guru relojoeiro e famoso retalhista Laurent Picciotto, da loja Chronopassion, em Paris?

Diz Max Büsser:

We think James Dean would have worn one; Billy Idol would have sang about it; and the Rebel Alliance would have fought for it!

James Dean was a Hollywood Rebel Without a Cause; Billy Idol had a Rebel Yell; Star Wars had its Rebel Alliance; and now MB&F pokes the establishment firmly in its conservatively-focused eye with the HM3 ReBel. Whereas James Dean was the epitome of movie star bad boy, MB&F is the wild child of haute horlogerie; the lone biker in a black leather jacket when everyone else is wearing grey suits and driving Volvos. And unlike Dean, the HM3 ReBel knows exactly what its cause is: horological anarchy!

ReBel: R for right (hand), B for Black (case). The black-coated ReBel is a distinctive, rock 'n roll mirror-image of the HM3 designed to be worn on the right wrist, as a few individualists out there want to do.

And like all true rebels, nothing on the HM3 ReBel is quite as it first appears, especially when you take a closer look behind its nonchalantly cool façade. Under the ReBel's open black leather jacket - or to be more precise, its black PVD-treated white gold case - charcoal-coloured movement plates and bridges form a darkened backdrop to the resplendent flash of the 22K rotor as it speeds by.

Despite its anarchistic appearance and unorthodox right-wrist architecture, the HM3 ReBel has a serious side. This dynamic, three-dimensional sculpture is a highly technical wristwatch as well as a statement of attitude. The ReBel's twin cones ergonomically indicate the hours and minutes, with the hour cone capped by a day/night indicator. The top caps of the truncated cones are brazed (not glued) to ensure maximum water-resistance and the red “hands” of the hour and minute indicators are cut by laser to obtain the incredibly high precision/minimum mass ratio the design necessitates.

White gold clover-head screws on top of the black case resemble rivets in an upmarket biker's leather jacket, while the large, legible numbers of the over-sized date wheel around the rotor enable the date to be read off easily against a neat, engraved triangle on the case.

The rotor and oscillating balance on top provide a clue that the ReBel's movement, featuring no less than 36 functional jewels and 304 components, is actually inverted. Turning the Machine over reveals the technical secret behind the powerful and superbly hand-finished engine: two large-diameter, high-tech ceramic bearings racing inside bright blue cages efficiently transmitting power up to the time indication cones and date wheel.

We think James Dean would have worn one; Billy Idol would have sang about it; and the Rebel Alliance would have fought for it.

HM3 ReBel is a limited edition of 18 pieces in black PVD-treated white gold, blackened movement and 22K gold rotor.

Características técnicas:

Case

Black PVD coated 18K white gold case;
Limited edition of 18 pieces
Screwed-down crown
Dimensions (exclusive of crown and lugs): 47mm x 50mm x 16mm
Number of case components : 57

Movement

Three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor
Powered by Girard-Perregaux base
Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph.
22K gold battle-axe shaped ‘mystery’
Automatic winding rotor
Hour and minutes information transmitted via ceramic ball bearings to laser-cut hands.
Number of jewels : 36 (all functional)
Number of components : 304

Functions

Hour and day/night indicator on one cone
Minutes on second cone
Date around the movement

Dials

Rotating aluminium domes, stationary hands

Sapphire crystals

Cones and both display backs with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.

Sapphire crystals

Black hand-stitched alligator with 18K white gold and titanium custom designed deployment buckle.