A Boutique Cartier em Lisboa (Avenida da Liberdade, 240), realiza de 2 a 13 de Dezembro a exposição Cartier Diamonds: Style and History (Diamantes Cartier: Estilo e História).
Centrada nos diamantes, a exposição apresenta 13 peças representativas, provenientes da Colecção Cartier, ilustrando o espírito e a arte da Maison.
Desde o estilo usado no início do século XX até à cravação moderna, desde uma tiara russa inspirada na Art Deco, passando por formas geométricas, até à representação de animais... são jóias que têm sempre os diamantes como centro.
A Colecção Cartier começou a ser constituída nos anos 1970, com produções da própria marca - jóias, relógios de pulso, de bolso ou de secretária, outros acessórios precisos. O espólio passaria em 1983 a constituir oficialmente a colecção.
Hoje, a Colecção Cartier é composta por peças que vão desde os anos 1860 aos anos 1990, retratando a história de 168 anos da Cartier em cerca de 1.500 exemplares.
Desde uma primeira exposição, em 1989, no Petit Palais, em Paris, a Colecção Cartier tem sido mostrada um pouco por todo o mundo, em mais de 20 locais como o Metropolitan Museum of Art de Nova Iorque, o British Museum de London, the Kremlin Museum em Moscow, o Palace Museum na Cidade Proibida, em Beijing, e no Grand Palais, em Paris.
A exposição de Lisboa inclui uma tiara de 1910, feita para Elisabeth, rainha dos Belgas; um pregador usado pela Princesa Margaret na coroação da sua irmã, rainha Isabel II, em 1953; os brincos usados pela rainha Victoria Eugénia de Espanha. Mas também jóias que pertenceram a Gloria Swanson ou a María Félix.
Tiara
Cartier Paris, special order, 1907
Platinum
Round old-cut diamonds
Natural pearls
Millegrain setting
This tiara was originally a comb of diamond olive leaves and pearls for the back of the head, which could also be worn as a bandeau. Made for the wedding of Marie Bonaparte to Prince George of Greece and Denmark in 1907, it was later transformed into a tiara.
Provenance: Princess Marie Bonaparte.
Great-granddaughter of Lucien Bonaparte (one of Napoleon’s brothers), Marie Bonaparte (1882–1962) married the second son of King George I of Greece before becoming a patient, disciple, friend, and patron of Sigmund Freud. She was a founding member of both the Société Psychanalytique de Paris (1926) and the Revue française de psychanalyse (1927). She was Freud’s first French translator and also published writings on Edgar Allan Poe, the theory of instincts, and female sexuality. The jewels that Cartier made for her wedding were displayed in the window of the premises on rue de la Paix.
Princess Marie Bonaparte (1882-1962) wears her olive-leaf diadem of diamonds and platinum, commissioned for her marriage to Prince George of Greece and Denmark in 1907. Cartier Archives © Cartier
True to tradition, the collection of jewellery commissioned by Princess Marie Bonaparte for her wedding in 1907 were displayed in the windows on rue de la Paix. Cartier Archives © Cartier
Scroll tiara
Cartier Paris, 1910
Platinum
One cushion-shaped diamond, round old-cut diamonds
Millegrain setting
Sold to Elisabeth, Queen of the Belgians (1876-1965).
Elizabeth, Queen of the Belgians, wears a Garland style diamond and platinum tiara, created for her in 1910.
Photographe Alban, Courtesy Bruxelles, Archives du Palais Royal
Cartier London, 1938
Platinum
Round old-, baguette-, and single-cut diamonds
Provenance: HRH The Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon. Princess Margaret (1930-2002) was the younger daughter of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother, and sister to The Queen Elizabeth II.
H.R.H. The Princess Margaret wore this brooch to the coronation of her sister H.M. Queen Elizabeth II on 2nd June 1953 at Westminster Abbey. (Christie’s, London, 13th June 2006).
Pair of ear pendants
Cartier Paris, 1923
Platinum
Round old-cut diamonds
Sold to Victoria Eugenia, Queen of Spain
Kokoshnik tiara
Cartier Paris, 1908
Platinum
Fifteen pear-shaped diamonds, weighing approximately 19 carats in total
Round old-cut diamonds
Natural pearls
“Muguet” setting for the swinging pear-shaped diamonds
The hanging diamonds represent one of the earliest examples of the technique known as a “muguet” setting. A delicate rim of platinum in the shape of a lily-of-the-valley (muguet) holds a large brilliant surrounded by several tightly packed diamonds that create the impression of a single stone. This type of setting was perfected around 1910.
Choker necklace
Cartier Paris, special order, 1906
Platinum
Round old-cut diamonds
Millegrain setting
Provenance: Mary Scott Townsend and Mrs. Donald McElroy.
Mary Scott Townsend was an eminent member of Washington’s high society at the turn of the twentieth century. Her great niece, Thora Ronalds McElroy (1907–90), was heir to the Scott-Strong coal and railroad fortune. The Collection boasts three other items with the same provenance.
Lace ribbon brooch
Cartier Paris, 1906
Platinum, gold
Cushion-shaped, marquise-cut, round old- and rose-cut diamonds
Millegrain setting and collet-setting
The large motif is detachable.
Sold to Sir Ernest Cassel.
Sir Ernest Cassel (1852–1921) was a friend and private financial adviser to King Edward VII of England. In 1922 his granddaughter, the Honorable Edwina Ashley, married the man who would become the last viceroy of India, Earl Mountbatten of Burma.
Sautoir Cartier Paris, 1928 (pendant) and 1929 (chain) Platinum Round old- and single-cut diamonds This sautoir-type necklace could be broken down and worn as four bracelets or be paired as a collar-type necklace and two bracelets. This is the way it was worn in the 1930s, once the fashion for long, sautoir-type chains had passed.
Brooch
Cartier New York, special order, 1928
Platinum
Round old-cut diamonds
Provenance: Collection of Sir Elton John (Sotheby’s London, sale catalogue of December 14, 1993)
Pyramid clip brooch
Cartier Paris, special order, 1935
Platinum
Round old-cut diamonds (one weighing approximately 4.20 carats), baguette- and single-cut diamonds
Two identical clip brooches were originally made to be worn separately or as a single piece; the client later asked that one of the brooches be set on a bracelet of white gold and black lacquer.
Bracelet
Cartier Paris, 1930
Platinum
Baguette-, round old- and single-cut diamonds
Thirty rock crystal half-disks and sixty rock crystal beads
Sold to Gloria Swanson
Bracelet
Cartier Paris, 1930
Platinum
Round old- and single-cut diamonds
Forty-seven rock crystal half-disks
Sold to Gloria Swanson.
The American actress (1899-1983) was then at the height of her fame, following her success in the early “talkies” (with movies such as What a widow! and Indiscreet), and had just married Michael Farmer, the third of her six husbands. The flexible and dazzling bracelets that she bought from Cartier are not only part of the history of jewelry but also part of the history of the movies, since she wore them in at least two films: Perfect Understanding (1932) and Sunset Boulevard (1950).
The American actress Gloria Swanson wearing her two bracelets of diamonds, rock crystal and platinum created in 1930. Cartier Archives © Cartier
Snake necklace
Cartier Paris, special order, 1968
Platinum, white gold and yellow gold
2 473 brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds, weighing 178.21 carats in total
Two pear-shaped emeralds (eyes)
Green, red and black enamel
Made as a special order for María Félix.
The archetypal Latin-style femme fatale, Maria Félix (1914–2002) became a celebrity in Mexico and France by starring in films by Emilio Fernandez (Enamorada, 1946), Jean Renoir (French Cancan, 1955), and Luis Buñuel (La Fièvre Monte à El Pao, 1959). The Mexican diva, whose career extended into the 1960s, had a fondness for reptiles and for imposing jewelry.
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