Afinal, o que é Alta Relojoaria?

Estação Cronográfica tem mantido no Facebook uma interessante discussão com personalidades ligadas ao mundo da relojoaria, fundamentalmente dos Estados Unidos, sobre o que é que se pode considerar como Alta Relojoaria.

E lançámos para a discussão aqueles que conhecemos como sendo os únicos critérios actualmente assumidos por uma organização do sector, a Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH).

As reacções não se fizeram esperar, muitas delas contra esses critérios. Marcas que massificaram a produção, por exemplo, a centenas de milhares de peças por ano, poderão ser incluídas?

Dentro da normal subjectividade que o assunto insere, Estação Cronográfica deixou nesse forum e deixa agora aqui uma questão muito prática: um relógio-jóia, feito em metais e pedras preciosas, com a aplicação de métiers d'art como a esmaltagem ou o cloisoné, custando algo como 100 mil euros, mas tendo no interior um movimento de quartzo, pode considerar-se Alta Relojoaria?

Para já, deixamos também aqui os critérios da FHH, para que os leitores da Estação Cronográfica possam ajuizar deles e da sua bondade:

The Perimeter of Technical and Precious Fine Watches

The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie has convened a Steering Committee of international personalities from various horizons (curators, experts, collectors, entrepreneurs and journalists), all of whom are recognised for their complete independence. The Committee's priority is to define the perimeter of Technical and Precious Fine Watches and identify its main players. This perimeter is reviewed each year.
The Steering Committee has defined the following fundamental principles as governing the "Fine Watch" designation:

1. The Product (one-off, limited edition or collections) is the main reference and must meet with precise criteria with regards to expertise.
   
   These are:


1. Technical watches:
   • A simple mechanical movement or a mechanical movement with complications such as a perpetual calendar, simple or split-seconds chronograph, minute repeater, tourbillon and/or any other highly technical and mechanical specification.
   • The movement is designed, developed and manufactured, partially or entirely, by the brand or by a supplier with an established reputation and working to very high standards of quality.
   • The movement parts are finished to the highest standard.
   • Authenticity, reliability, traceability and guarantee of the movement and of the noble and precious materials with which it is made.
   • The exterior shows creativity, originality, authenticity and distinctiveness


2. Precious watches:
   • The same movement and complications as technical watches (see above) or a “non-mechanical” movement in order to respect the aesthetic requirements of precious creations.
   • Exceptional emphasis on the exterior elements, demonstrating unique creativity and embracing the mechanical and aesthetic requirements of a fine jewellery watch (originality and authenticity).
   • The movement and exterior are made from noble materials and set with precious stones of certified origin.


2. The Brand proposes collections of one or several types of product among which Fine Watches are significant in both quality and quantity.
   
   Through its distinctive Fine Watch products, the brand must demonstrate:


• Culture and expertise
• A proven commitment and capacity to invest in research and development
• A commitment to preserving, developing and transmitting this unique expertise, in particular by training young watchmakers
• Legitimacy and heritage for traditional brands; personality and originality for contemporary brands
• A specific DNA; the brand is acknowledged and respected by connoisseurs
• A selective and qualified sales network
• Competent and quality after-sales service
• International communication in keeping with the values of Fine Watchmaking
• Active contribution to the fight against counterfeits and servile copies

To date, 60 Technical and Precious Fine Watch brands fall within the perimeter defined by the Steering Committee. Of these, 28 (in gold below) are already partner to the Foundation and involved in its various cultural activities:
A.Lange & Söhne, Alain Silberstein, Andreas Strehler, Antoine Preziuso, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Beat Haldimann, Blancpain, Bovet Fleurier, Boucheron, Breguet, Breitling, Bulgari, Cartier, Chanel, Chopard, Corum, De Bethune, De Grisogono, DeWitt, F.P.Journe Invenit et Fecit, Franck Muller, Girard-Perregaux, Glashütte Original, Greubel Forsey, Vianney Halter, Harry Winston Timepieces, Hautlence, Hublot, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaquet Droz, JeanRichard, Kari Voutilainen, La Montre Hermès, Maîtres du temps, Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps, MB & F SA, H. Moser & cie, Montblanc, Omega, Panerai, Parmigiani, Patek Philippe, Paul Gerber, Perrelet, Piaget, Philippe Dufour, Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis, Rolex, Speake Marin, TAG Heuer, Thomas Prescher, Ulysse Nardin, Union Glasshütte, Urwerk, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef and Arpels, Vincent Bérard, Zenith.