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The JwlryMachine: Boucheron’s sparkling interpretation of MB&F’s Horological Machine No.3
What could possibly bring together the 152-year-old House of Boucheron, that most venerable of France’s high-jewellery Houses, and MB&F, the young, cutting-edge Swiss creative laboratory whose Horological Machines first invaded our planet only five years ago?
The answer is the JwlryMachine, an astonishing haute-joaillerie version of MB&F’s Horological Machine No3 (HM3).
The catalyst: Horological Machine No3
The original HM3, in gold and titanium, sent tremors through the fine-watchmaking world when it was launched in 2009. Its kinetically energetic engine is displayed on the top of the watch, where the swinging battle-axe-shaped rotor – an iconic MB&F symbol – and the fast-oscillating balance are clearly visible. The time indications parade around twin cones rising majestically from the three-dimensional sculpted case, driven by two oversized ceramic ball bearings. This combination of futuristic performance art and highly technical wristwatch is a feat of micro engineering. MB&F’s engineers and watchmakers machine, hand-finish and assemble the 305 parts of the HM3 engine to tolerances of a micron.
The JwlryMachine: breathing the magic of Boucheron
Although the HM3 was never conceived with diamonds in mind, Maximilian Büsser had been nurturing the idea of working with the House of Boucheron for years. “I was impressed by their immense savoir-faire,” he says, “and their creative passion. They are resolutely avant-garde, and each of their jewels is a virtuoso performance.”
For the JwlryMachine, Boucheron’s peerless artisans have conceived the HM3 as a splendid three-dimensional jewelled owl, presented either in 18k white gold, with amethyst, diamonds and blue and violet sapphires, or in 18k red gold, with pink tourmaline, rose quartz, diamonds and pink sapphires.
The owl’s eyes are large glowing cabochons, set over the twin cones, and its sparkling wings, wrapped protectively around the precious HM3 engine, are entirely pavé-set with brilliant-cut stones. Its feathered breast is sculpted and engraved from a single block of amethyst or rose quartz. Most mesmerising of all: beneath the owl’s breast, its heart appears to be beating. The visual illusion is created by the faintly perceived swings of MB&F’s solid-gold battle-axe-shaped rotor beneath the translucent stone.
A perfect match
Boucheron’s artisans create the owl’s jewelled body as a framework of solid gold, cast in five separate segments that fit onto HM3 with micron-perfect precision. Structurally, it is a perfect match. At the same time, it is quintessentially Boucheron, whose audacious interpretations of Nature’s strangest and most extravagant creatures are so particular to the House that it calls them its Cabinet of Curiosities.
Looking back on the initial discussions, Boucheron’s CEO Mr Jean-Christophe Bédos says, “MB&F showed an appreciation of the excellence that Boucheron embodies. A collaboration between our two Houses was certain to lead to an exceptionally creative concept, with a sparkling result and even a sense of humorous audacity.”
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