Chegado ao mercado - relógio Pinion Revival 1969, cronógrafo de carga manual

A Pinion, marca inglesa fundada em 2013, em South Oxfordshire, continua a produzir relógios com calibres suíços. Desta vez, apresenta o seu primeiro cronógrafo, equipado com o calibre de carga manual Valjoux 7734, de 1969.

O Pinion Revival 1969 (R1969) usa 100 calibres de há 45 anos, que nunca tinham sido montados ou usados. As origens do Valjoux 7734 estão num outro fabricante de cronógrafos, a Venus, que produziu o calibre Venus 188 e deixou de o produzir em 1966. A Valjoux pegou nos desenhos do 188 e adaptou-os, criando o 7730. O Valjoux 7734 faz parte dessa família. Marcas como a Breitling, a Tudor ou a Heuer usaram o Valjoux 7734 durante os anos 1960 e 1970. O calibre deixou de ser produzido em 1978 mas continuou a ser empregue até anos anos 1980.

Piers Berry, funador da Pinion, explica:

“How do you bring something from 1969 up to date without changing anything? That was the challenge we set ourselves. We’re a modern English watch company that’s secured a very rare stock of these 7734 movements still in their unused and unassembled (Ebauché) condition. So we started with what we had and built out from there. With the dependability of this movement comes the practicality to wear this watch every day. So for the case we chose 316L stainless steel. It’s hard, strong, highly resistant to corrosion and has excellent hypoallergenic properties. As an added bonus it also polishes up to a stunning reflective finish. A handwound chronograph invites and requires a high degree of human interaction. So the ‘contact points’ become important from an ergonomic and operational point of view. That’s why we paid special attention to designing and making our own bespoke pushers and crown to provide a positive action and wearer feedback. Of course, in a chronograph watch the dial needs to be clear and simple to read. At Pinion we strive for simplicity and subtlety over complication and confusion; We engineered our own bespoke applied typeface for the main makers and so even though the dial is all black there are multiple levels and variations in the finish on its different sections to create contrasts that help with legibility and we’ve engineered this to a 100th of a millimetre of precision to ensure it’s accurate. In terms of the aesthetics we wanted the Revival 1969 to reference 20th century vintage chronographs, but with a 21st century twist. Hence the ‘Superdome’ double bezel and convex anti-reflective crystal combination and a very wearable, modern yet modest 43mm size. For all these reasons the Revival’s form follows its function, and that for me is what makes this a thoroughly modern watch – with heritage at its heart. You can see its modernity and ‘feel’ its history… the ticka-ticka sound from the handwound Valjoux movement is wonderfully satisfying and just a bit different from higher beat modern automatic movements”.

O Pinion Revival 1969, edição limitada de 100 exemplares. vem num estojo de madeira, lacado de preto, e será lançado na exposição SalonQP, que decorre em Londres, de 6 a 8 de Novembro.

Com autonomia de 45 horas, tem caixa de aço, de 43 mm, e vidro de safira na frente e no verso. É estanque até 100 metros. Custa 5.160 € e é vendido apenas online.