quinta-feira, 27 de dezembro de 2012

Chegado ao mercado - Maîtres du Temps Chapter Two TCR - Grande Data, Triplo Calendário Instantâneo


Maîtres du Temps Chapter Two TCR - Grande Data, Triplo Calendário Instantâneo, "o relógio de pulso com triplo calendário mais legível do mundo".

Concebido por dois dos maiores mestres relojoeiros contemporâneos, Daniel Roth e Peter Speake-Marin. Dois rolos independentes dão a indicação de dia da semana e do mês, enquanto às 12 horas uma janela fornece uma Grande Data.

Caixa de 56 mm, de titânio, ou titânio coberto a PVD negro. Luneta em cerâmica. Numeração romana preenchida a Super-LumiNova. Vidro de safira, anti-reflexo, no mostrador e nos rolos.

Fundo em vidro de safira, botões de correcção do mês e do dia no verso. Botão de correcção da Grande Data às 02 horas.

Calibre automático, desenvolvido pela Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, em colaboração com Peter Speake-Marin e Daniel Roth, decorado à mão.

Bracelete em borracha natural, negra, com fecho em titânio.



Da marca:

Master Watchmaker Daniel Roth

You can appreciate just how much Daniel Roth must have loved horology when you consider that, as a young man recently graduated from the watchmaking school in Nice, he relocated from the sunny south of France to the frozen-for-months Vallée de Joux in Switzerland. Even then, the young Roth knew he wanted more from horology than was to be found beside the warm beaches, and while the Vallée de Joux might be cold, it was also the epicenter of haute horlogerie. It says much for Roth’s confidence that, after learning traditional watchmaking techniques at Audemars Piguet, but not yet thirty years old, he precociously applied for the position of Master Watchmaker at Breguet. The year was 1970, and the Chaumet brothers had bought Breguet, at the time virtually dormant, with the intention of reviving the brand and restoring it to its former glory. They decided that Roth had the talent and drive required to accomplish this massive task and thus offered him the job. In 1989, he then embarked on yet another adventure that again proved him to be both a pioneer and an inspiration: he launched his own brand. After more than a decade of crafting interesting and innovative complications housed in his now-iconic case shape, Roth left his company when it was bought out, and then, after a lifetime of sharing his traditional craft with larger brands, he went back to his roots and started crafting watches by hand. Tradition had come home to roost. “Watchmaking in the traditional sense can be a solitary endeavor,” says Roth. “Working with Maîtres du Temps allows me to learn from the other master watchmakers and to pass on some of my own knowledge to them.”



Master Watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin

For English watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin, the preferred route has always been the road less traveled. From the outset, his iconoclastic personality has expressed itself not only in his chosen profession and passion for horology, but also in the way he has pursued that path. Speake-Marin followed his talent to study horology in the mid-1980s. His skills were rapidly recognized, and he was soon given an opportunity by a prominent London antique watch dealer to establish his watch repair and restoration department. This was an invaluable experience that afforded Speake-Marin exposure to many different brands of vintage complications of the highest caliber. “There I fell in love with watchmaking,” he has said of his years working with these exquisite examples of the watchmaker’s art. To satisfy his desire for adventure and to broaden his experience, Speake-Marin left England for Switzerland, where he had earlier studied. His first stop was the workshop of renowned complications specialists Renaud & Papi. He then dedicated himself to mastering the methods through which today’s increasingly audacious new horological complications are conceived. At the same time, he began work on his own masterpiece—a unique tourbillon pocket watch designed, constructed and assembled entirely by hand. Speake-Marin believes that in order for horological artistry to flourish, watchmakers must be aware of the past and conscious of the wealth of new possibilities offered by the future. “New design and manufacturing technologies allow fresh scope for different forms that were unimaginable only ten years ago,” he says. For Speake-Marin, Maîtres du Temps is the perfect medium through which to express his experience of the historical tradition of fine watchmaking and to convey his belief in its future.



About Maîtres du Temps

Maîtres du Temps is based on an entirely new horological concept. Founded by Steven Holtzman, Maîtres du Temps brings together teams of the world’s most talented master watchmakers to develop exclusive, technically exciting timepieces. Maîtres du Temps is a pantheon in which today’s greatest master watchmakers collaborate on the most innovative horological projects imaginable. Maîtres du Temps promotes, brings to the fore, and celebrates the watchmakers at the very pinnacle of haute horlogerie, those who develop and craft the timepieces, those whose influences, strengths, and accomplishments shape the watchmaking of today and tomorrow. “Maîtres du Temps has embraced the philosophy Masters and Their Craft—A Lifelong Pursuit of Excellence. It is the spirit of the brand and the driving force behind our commitment to the art of watchmaking. Our goal is to anchor and align ourselves with some of the most celebrated independent watchmakers of our time. The intent is to create classic watches that will be appreciated not only today but for many years to come,” says Holtzman. Each master watchmaker brings to the table his own ideas, his own style, and his own approach, and by providing the opportunity for them to work together, Maîtres du Temps harnesses and maximizes their incredible talent. “By bringing together these important independent watchmakers and respecting the essential aspects of their craft, with Maîtres du Temps we hope to balance tradition and innovation in the development of our timepieces,” says Holtzman. “My plan for Maîtres du Temps is to be actively involved in passing the craft and skills of more experienced master watchmakers to the next generation of masters. I believe there will be an interest in the art of fine watchmaking for many years to come.” Maîtres du Temps launched in 2008 with Chapter One by Christophe Claret and Peter Speake-Marin, a timepiece that features a world-first combination of tourbillon, mono-pusher column wheel chronograph, retrograde date and GMT, as well as moon phase and day of the week on rollers. In 2009, Maîtres du Temps presented the world’s most legible triple calendar wristwatch, Chapter Two, by Daniel Roth and Peter Speake-Marin. Chapter Three Reveal—with GMT and day/night indication hidden under the dial—was created by Kari Voutilainen and Andreas Strehler and launched in early 2012.




Chapter Two TCR – Technical Specifications Instantaneous triple calendar, big date, day indication on roller, month indication on roller, sub-seconds, automatic winding mechanical movement Displays Central hands indicating hours and minutes Sub-seconds at 6 o’clock Big date at 12 o’clock Day indication on roller at 6 o’clock Month indication on roller at 12 o’clock Functions Time: hours, minutes, seconds Instantaneous triple calendar: big date, day, and month Caliber SHC01 Automatic winding mechanical movement Symbolically goblet-shaped rotor in 22K gold, panier guilloche, and relief text Dimensions: 45 mm x 32 mm x 9 mm Number of components: 332 Number of jewels: 32 Power reserve: 50 hours Balance frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) Finishing: sun-ray Côtes de Genève, perlage, beveling, colimaçonnage, and polished screw heads Case Grade 5 titanium or combination Grade 5 titanium and black PVD Number of components: 47 Dimensions: 56 mm x 44 mm x 15 mm Dial and octagonal display-back sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating Two curved, metalized sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating over rollers High polish and brushed finishes on compound-curve surfaces Bezel matte ceramic Crown, screws, and pushers: 18K white or red gold Correctors Day corrector on caseback bottom Month corrector on caseback top Big date corrector on side of case at 2 o’clock Dial and Hands Number of dial components: 23 Multi-faceted and beveled Diamond-cut applied Roman numerals with Super-LumiNova High finishing with diamond cut and circular grain satin surfaces Hour and minute hands with Super-LumiNova Small second hand with partial red painting Day and Month Rollers Black anodized aluminum Strap and Buckle Natural rubber with adjustable two-position titanium deployant buckle.


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