Depois de um ano recorde em 2011, o ambiente relojoeiro helvético é de optimismo cauteloso, sentimento que presidiu aos salões de Janeiro em Genebra - Salão Internacional de Alta Relojoaria ou Geneva Time Exhibition - e que deverá persistir no maior certame do mundo no seu género - a Baselworld, que decorre de 8 a 15 de Março, em Basileia, ultima os preparativos e aponta já tendências - vintage ao lado de high-tech, valorização dos métiers d'art sem detrimento da funcionalidade.
O comunicado distribuído hoje pela organização da feira:
Following on from a record-breaking 2011, the new BASELWORLD to be held from March 8th to 15th certainly looks promising. In this optimistic, albeit cautious context, watchmakers, jewellers and suppliers are currently putting the final touches to their creations, in order to create a splash at the largest international event in their sector. An opportunity to take a good look at the Swiss watchmaking scene and its brands that spark trends without succumbing to the dictates of ephemeral fashions.
BASELWORLD, the world’s most important watchmaking and jewellery fair, will take place for the 40th time from March 8th to 15th 2012. A real highlight, the show is an opportunity to affirm the upward-moving export trend, but above all to reveal the most recent creations of Swiss Exhibitors which rival each other in ingenuity and skill. And there’s no shortage of choice! From the most classical to the completely futurist, from feminine to virile and from quartz to mechanical, the timepieces provide a veritable anthology of techniques and emotions flirting with both innovation and tradition. While certain trends naturally develop year after year, Swiss watchmakers studiously avoid creating their models according to fleeting fashions. A watch is above all the story of a lifetime.
The vintage look and spirit
Vintage has been in the spotlight for several years already, reviewed and amended according to contemporary aesthetic codes. These “new vintage” creations revisit historic models with a glorious past. Thus, the 1950s and 60s are once again blooming on our wrists, albeit with great sobriety. Aesthetics are simplified, with frequently ultra-thin cases, useful functions and comfort being the absolute must. This return to roots also requires a re-think of mechanisms to improve them even more. The automatic movement is enjoying its finest hour. It is used in various additional modules, beating to new rhythms and treated to every possible attention on the decoration front. Far from left behind, the tourbillon has rarely been as widely present, performing its revolutions on creations by prestigious brands as well as on less expected models – all thus beautifully showcasing Swiss skills. Aesthetics are carefully designed, with round and more modestly sized cases; finely crafted, highly readable dials that are frequently openworked or skeletonized so as to make extensive use of transparency in enhancing visibility; as well as monochrome and two-tone colours including many shades of black, white, silver and increasingly frequently, royal blue.
Continuing to draw inspiration from the work of ancient watchmakers, models demonstrate a new infatuation that is becoming a distinct trend – namely, that of artistic crafts. Enamelling, paving, mosaic, engraving, marquetry, guilloché represent an entire range of techniques serving to shape matter in order to create three dimensional decorative motifs. Mother-of-pearl, ceramics, diamonds and precious stones are exalted by artisans who create ultra-realistic depictions of fauna, lush flora and other moving works of art.
Functionality above all!
Whether re-visited or resolutely contemporary, above all, watches fulfil needs. Consequently, the GMT models are designed for today’s nomads. With models displaying one, two or three time zones and up to 24 cities as points of reference, it has never been so easy to travel. With each such metropolis at our fingertips, one smooth gesture takes us whizzing around the world! Nor does the success of the chronograph show any sign of diminishing. Associated with the world of cars, planes or simply daily needs, the three counters – hours, minutes and small second hand – pop up everywhere, a trend that confirms the return of urban chic and sporting elegance in the hearts of watch lovers. And finally, ocean depths are being steadily conquered by the technologies used in the most recent diving watches.
From “new vintage” to 100% futurist
BASELWORLD is also an opportunity to get to know timepieces from “another dimension”. Welcome to a world where avant-garde rules supreme and where classic references have no place, giving way to models distinguished by their innovative architecture and extraordinary displays. Stunning techniques combining titanium, ceramics, carbon fibre, rubber… Liquid, solid, air: all conventional limits are surpassed and any sense of propriety has gone by the wayside! Moreover, futuristic timepieces rhyme with unlikely associations, such as sapphire crystals serving as case middles or dials, opaque glass discs masking the time, or mechanisms that are alternately revealed and hidden. A realm featuring a wealth of mechanical devices and passionately dedicated creative spirits! The meeting is on with the Swiss Exhibitors!
2011, record year for Swiss watchmaking
With over 19.3 billion francs’ worth of exports, 2011 was the ultimate record year, with remarkable growth in the context of which Swiss watch companies exceeded the previous year’s result by 19.2%. The fourth quarter was the best, with the three biggest months in the history of watch exports – results that are a noteworthy exception within a tough economic climate. The sector’s success was also penalised by the strong Swiss franc, which affected both profit margins and retail prices. Nonetheless, the 29.8 million watches exported last year (+13.8%) bode well for 2012.
While caution is the order of the day with each new edition, Swiss Exhibitors appear to be resolutely confident and look forward to meeting you at BASELWORLD from March 8th to 15th 2012, in order to consolidate their optimism.
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