sábado, 28 de janeiro de 2012

Pré-Baselworld 2012 - Chanel "Premiere Flying Tourbillon"


Chanel "Premiere Flying Tourbillon". Para assinalar os 25 anos do primeiro relógio Chanel, formato inspirado no frasco de perfume No. 5 e na Place Vendôme.

Depois de ter apresentado o primeiro turbilhão, em 2005, a Chanel surge agora com um turbilhão voador (sem a ponte superior), desenvolvido em colaboração com a Renaud & Papi, empresa de pesquisa e desenvolvimento da Audemars Piguet.

Decorado com motivos da camélia, um tributo à flor favorita de Madame Chanel. O turbilhão faz uma rotação por minuto e as pétalas, com pavé de diamantes, indicam os segundos.

Caixa de 28,5 x 37 mm, em ouro branco, com pavé de diamantes. Mostrador em cerâmica negra. Horas e minutos descentrados, ponteiros em ouro branco, com diamantes.

Calibre de carga manual, decorado à mão. Edição limitada a 20 exemplares.






Da marca:

The frame of a traditional Tourbillon, which houses the suspended unit that regulates a watch (namely the balance and the spring, as well as the escapement) turns between the base of the movement, the bottom-plate and the upper bridge, which all hold this frame on its axis. It is this rotation that, by varying the positions of the regulating unit, compensate for the effects of the earth’s gravitational pull.

The Flying Tourbillon is more complex because it does not have an upper bridge. This absence enhances the aesthetics of the watch so the frame appears to be revolving weightlessly. However, without the upper bridge, the Flying Tourbillon still has to be able to resist impact just as well as a traditional Tourbillon. Consequently, the construction of the frame composed of a three-dimensional assembly of delicate elements, becomes a marvel of micromechanics.

Ficha técnica:

Calibre “Camélia Flying Tourbillon”.
Movement designed exclusively for Chanel by Renaud & Papi (APRP SA).
Mechanical movement with manual winding.
Power reserve: 40 hours.
Number of parts: 225.
Parts chamfered, drawn and circular-grained by hand.
Number of jewels: 18.
Flying tourbillon: 73 parts – frame mass 0.432 g.
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations / hour (3 Hz).
Motor unit: 1 fixed clamp barrel.
Spring torque: 720 g.mm.
“Custom” tailored rectangular bottom plate.
Anti-shock system on the balance.
Variable-inertia balance.

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